Posts Tagged ‘Seal’

Easy Pond And Water Garden Construction

Monday, January 5th, 2009
Today’s successful water garden usually is designed as an ecosystem that uses a balance between fish, plants and bacteria keeping the water clear. The type of pond I’m talking about is self-contained (not fed by a spring or stream) and between 100-900 sq ft; a backyard water garden that is easy to maintain and adds value to your lifestyle and property. 20 years ago the typical do-it-yourself water garden was a muck-filled cesspool waiting to happen, while the successful koi pond required deep water and unattractive out of the pond filtering equipment. Thanks to a better understanding of the pond ecosystem and some equipment ideas borrowed from the pool equipment industry, anyone with the ability to dig, make things level, and move rocks and dirt around can create a beautiful living water garden if they use proven equipment and methods.

Now I will admit that there are other ways that can work; But none of the other pond construction methods have the successful track record I’ve seen with pond installs using this system.

The basic elements for this system are underlayment, liner, rocks and gravel, skimmer, fill valve, pump, plumbing, biological filtration, plants, fish, and bacteria.

Here’s a simplified explanation of how this works as an ecosystem. Fish eat insects and plants and then the fish waste spreads through the system . The skimmer draws water off the top layer of the pond helping with circulation and aeration while trapping floating debris in a net. The pump is situated under the net in the skimmer and pumps up to a bio-filter. The bio-filter is often designed to be incorporated into a waterfall. The water enters the bio filter and rises up through filter media that is colonized by bacteria. The bacteria converts the waste into forms less harmful to the fish and less conducive to excessive algae growth. The waterfall or stream add more aeration that the bacteria and fish need. The plants uptake more of the nitrogen and some oxygenate the water. The rocks and gravel provide more area for bacteria and protect the liner from UV rays.

Sheesh! Every time I set out to give a simple explanation of a pond ecosystem it still takes 10 sentences. Suffice it to say that all the parts work together to make your pondkeeping easy!

I use the word easy as a relative term. Compared to the work and rebuilding you may experience with other methods this is the easiest way I know. But there is still a good deal of work in pond construction. Obviously you need to dig and shape a hole in the ground and move some heavy items around. A well trained crew with everything needed on-site can install a pond in a day. It may take a few weekends for a homeowner to do the job himself, depending on their ability, time, and conditions.

Some key points:

Size: It’s best to have it at least 6 ft across. Bigger is better. 16 x 11 is a good medium size. Generally people regret not making the pond larger when they are done with their first one.

Location: There is a tendency to put ponds in a place where water already collects in the yard. This isn’t always the best idea. Groundwater running into the pond can create problems. If possible bring it right up near the patio where you can enjoy the fish and flowing water everyday.

Electric and plumbing: Don’t overlook the need for a GFI outlet near the pump and a water source to keep the pond topped off. Most kits for some reason don’t include a fill valve, but it really is important since on a windy day a pond can easily lose an inch of water. Left unattended this can lead to the pump running dry in the skimmer for a long period causing possible damage. The ponds level of course won’t drop below the skimmer opening.

Lets go over the basic steps for installing this type of pond system.

Decide the size of the pond and order a kit with all the necessary components. Layout the shape of the pond with something like a garden hose. Leave it out there for a while, move it, think about where the falls and different plants will be. If you are building a stream do the layout for it too. Level ground isn’t a problem since you will be excavating enough soil to buildup around your waterfall filter. Paint an outline with orange marking spray paint.

Make arrangements for getting the variety of rock and gravel you will be using.

Position your skimmer and BioFilter. The skimmer should be on the opposite side from the falls or stream to create circulation. Then lay the flexible PVC, or kink-free pipe between the skimmer and waterfall filter. This is so it can be covered during excavation instead of trenching it in.

Establish a firm compacted and level base for the Waterfall filter, perhaps leaning slightly forward, depending on it’s design. If you have help they can be working on digging the pond while you get this right, or vice versa.

Hook up the plumbing to the filter and backfill around it. It’s a good idea to have someone stand in the filter while it is being backfilled to prevent it from shifting out of position on the base.

Examine any slope of the land and establish where the water level will be; usually a couple inches below grade. Finish digging the pond relative to the water level. A rotating laser level is the ultimate tool for this, though they are expensive to rent. Patiently checking string levels in all directions can get the job done also. Include shelves for marginal plants and keep the sides and shelves level. The deep part of the pond should be around 2 ft or a little less. Any deeper and most towns swimming pool codes kick in with fence requirements. Unless you intend to keep a great number of koi this will be plenty deep for your fish. Planting pockets for water lilies can also be dug now. These pockets create a plantable depression in you liner for later. You can either plant directly in these pockets or hide your planters in them covering with gravel creating a more natural looking pond.

Excavate the position for the skimmer so it will be on a firm level base that gets it into correct position relative to the water level. Recheck everything. All the measurements and levels. Make sure the pond is free of sharp objects and unfold the underlayment into it. Start in the deep area pushing the underlayment into all the shelves and pockets. The EPDM rubber liner is then installed in the same way, making sure that it extends far past the waterline (settling will occur) and above the openings on your skimmer, filter, stream etc.

Add rock and gravel. Pre-washing the stones can help with a clean install or you can hose them down in the pond while pumping out the dirty water. Use larger stones at the base of each wall that forms a shelf, building up with smaller ones. Cover flat areas with 1″-2″ gravel…absolutely no more than that. If you have extra gravel don’t be tempted to just use more in the bottom of your pond. This is for biological reasons I won’t go into now. The rock should have your liner pretty well pulled into position now so you can make final adjustments on your skimmer and attach the liner to it according to the manufacturers instructions.

Start filling the pond. Now the fun of building the waterfall and stream. Make sure you have plenty of slack running up to the falls opening before you attach it and make any cuts. Also take care to avoid folds in the liner as you twist downstream. Folds in the stream liner are a common source of leaks and why a very wide liner for a stream is recommended. Dry stack stones as in a wall up the front of the waterfall filter. Using black waterfall foam or some other type of expanding foam to seal the space between the rocks. This makes the water flow over the rocks instead of disappearing into the cracks between. Black waterfall foam is nice for blending in with the rocks. The basic outline of the stream should have been established with excavated soil from the pond, but some digging of different catch pools may be necessary and you may need to build up more of a berm at the waterfall. Rock in the sides of the stream and cover the bottom with gravel as in the pond. Use the waterfall foam to seal in rocks wherever a cascading effect is wanted, using flat rock to form the lip of falls and sealing under them.

Install the pump, install the overflow plumbing and fill valve in the skimmer. When water level is high enough and all the waterfall foam is dry, (you can assume your hands will be covered with the stuff, but try to avoid it because it is very difficult to clean off!) try out the pump. You will then need to refill the pond as it will take a large volume of water to fill the plumbing, falls and stream. Once you are happy everything is as it should be, cut the excess liner away. Leave several inches of liner for settling and possible adjustments.

There are plenty more nuances to building a pond but this should give you a decent feel for what a water garden project entails. The kits we sell include a decent installation manual and I’m happy to answer any questions as are many other pond enthusiasts.

How to Install a Hose Bib

Thursday, December 4th, 2008

If you are sick and tired of carting your garden hose around the yard, consider shortening the hose by installing additional hose bibs in convenient exterior locations around your home. The only requirement is that you will need to tap into a water line and you will need to be able to solder copper pipe to connect the bib.

There are many options for hose bibs. To prevent waste water from backflowing consider an anti-siphon hose bib. There are also frost-free hose bibs available that will not freeze during winter months.

To install an additional hose bib, first drill a hole into the side of your home where the water line is located. It’s best to use a hole saw that is the same diameter of the pipe. Insert the hose bib shaft through the opening. You will need to turn off the main water supply and and drain water lines. Now attach the hose bib flange to the wall.

You will need to cut the water supply line with the two cutter and then solder the copper pipe to the threaded adapter fitting. Now install a copper T and piping to the hose bib stub.

Connect the hose bib to the adapter with a union fitting. Consider installing a shutoff valve here. Now caulk around the flange to seal. Check for leaks by turning on the water at the main valve. Once a steady stream is established turn it off. Now turn on the hose them to test it.

arrowhead-hose-bibb-3-4-mip-x-3-4-hose-bib-valve ARROWHEAD Hose Bibb 3/4" MIP x 3/4" Hose BIB VALVE
US $7.99
Auction Ends: Tuesday Mar-16-2010 20:22:44 PDT
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arrowhead-hose-bibb-3-4-mip-x-3-4-hose-bib-valve ARROWHEAD Hose Bibb 3/4" MIP x 3/4" Hose BIB VALVE
US $6.99
Auction Ends: Tuesday Mar-16-2010 20:23:56 PDT
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arrowhead-hose-bibb-1-2-fip-x-3-4-hose-bib-valve ARROWHEAD Hose Bibb 1/2" FIP x 3/4" Hose BIB VALVE
US $6.99
Auction Ends: Tuesday Mar-16-2010 20:24:47 PDT
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Hose Reels – Winter Gardening Ideas

Sunday, June 15th, 2008
garden hose

Are you an avid gardener stuck in the middle of a cold and snowy winter? Looking out the window at your beautiful garden covered in snow can be very depressing. Take a break from cold and go do something positive for your garden. Options are limited for winter gardening but there is one thing that can be done year round and that is shopping. Hose reels are the latest innovation for the home garden.

Hose Reels – What are they?

Hose Reels are a cylindrical device around which many types of hoses can be manually or mechanically wound. Most hose reels feature a side-mounted handle for manual winding and unwinding. Some utilize electric, spring or air (pneumatic) power to unwind and wind the hosing with minimum effort. The purpose of hose reels is to keep hoses neat when not in use and kink free when being used. Hoses lying out are a tripping hazard to employees and customers. Hose Reels prevent this danger and also prolong the life of the hose.

Hose Reels – Winding and Unwinding

Hose reels have different winding options. A manual hose reel has no automatic retraction mechanism but is equipped with a hand-turned crank. A motor powers the retraction mechanism in electric, hydraulic and pneumatic hose reels. In a spring reel, an internal spring is used to retract the hose. In some spring hose reels, the spring motor is hermetically sealed to completely isolate it from dirt and moisture. Many Hose Reels come with a latching mechanism that assures positive extension stop and easy retraction at any length. It should be noted that we do not recommend these types of hose reels for home use as they can be dangerous when mixing electricity with water. There are also automatic hose reels which use the power of the water flowing through the hose to self wind. These hose reels do not require any electricity and are the best way to automatically wind up a hose.

Hose reels are manufactured to meet requirements for a variety of applications. Smaller versions are able to house smaller diameter and lighter hosing such as garden hoses. Hose reels used for fire department and construction hoses are built to be larger and more rigid to support the extra length and load. There are certain reels that are utilized solely for transportation and others that are used for transportation and storage. Some hose reels allow the use of the hose while it is still wound up. These hose reels provide easy access and storing efficiency, which is what draws consumers towards them.

For more ideas and gardening information you can visit the gardening blog at http://hose-reels.blogspot.com/ or check out the whole line of cool hose reels at http://www.no-crank.com/

lewis-tools-hct-1-compact-garden-hose-reel-truck LEWIS TOOLS HCT-1 COMPACT GARDEN HOSE REEL TRUCK
US $84.99
Auction Ends: Thursday Mar-11-2010 4:48:57 PST
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suncast-cart-mount-garden-hose-reel-model-jtt175t SUNCAST CART MOUNT GARDEN HOSE REEL MODEL JTT175T
US $49.99
Auction Ends: Thursday Mar-11-2010 5:15:19 PST
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