No matter how much people try to encourage the wildlife to visit and live in their gardens. There will always be occasions and/or parts of the garden where we do not welcome them. This being mainly when we are planting young seedlings or a crop of edible plants is getting close to harvest. So we have to strike a balance between encouraging the wildlife as well as being able to discourage them at other times or from certain particular places.

There are four ways of protecting your plants or crop from the ravages of birds and animals; these methods include fences, scarers, covers and sprays. Here we will deal with suggestions for the last three of these ideas.

Most of these ideas though will only provide a temporary solution, because most times the birds or wildlife, while scared off at first will eventually stop being frightened and will return and ignore or bypass that method in future. So it is an idea to only use each idea for a short time, and then later switch to a different system of control.

Scarers

Scarers usually rely on something to surprise the wildlife’s vision or hearing, to frighten them into leaving.

Bell Scarers

If you have some small cheap bells lying around or you can pick some up cheap, then string them along a length of twine over your plants.

Bottle Top Scarers

String a series of metal and or plastic bottle tops between stakes driven into the ground at the outside of the area to be protected. Make sure that they can move easily in the slightest breeze or at the gentlest touch. It also helps if some of them can rattle together to add a bit of noise.

Tie one off every so often so that it cannot move, this will stop them all migrating to the lowest point of the length of string.

Drink Bottle Rattle Scarer

Partially fill some drink bottles with a fairly light product like rice or dried peas, put enough in to make it into a rattle. Then tie them along some twine tied over your young plants. If animals tap them or the breeze is blowing they will make a noise, to frighten the small critters away.

Drink Can/Bottle Scarers

Tie some cans or bottle along some twine so that they can bump together to make a noise if tapped or moved by a breeze, to frighten the small animals or birds.

Whirligig Scarers

If you have one of those little whirligigs that have a blade that goes around in the breeze, why not set it up near your plants it will scare the birds away as long as the wind is blowing.

Hawk Scarers

Unless you are fairly good at both art and woodcraft and can make one yourself, you will probably have to go out purchase one of the commercially made Hawk scarers and set it up following the directions in the pack, to frighten away the birds.

Kites

Here you can either go out and purchase a small cheap kids kite or look at making your own kites.

To cover your kite, you can use anything from material through to old foil wrapping paper, kitchen foil or even plastic shopping bags.

Even kites made to be only a few inches across, can be an effective scarer, if you hang them to blow in the breeze.

Ribbon Scarers

Rip or cut some scraps of brightly coloured or reflective material into small strips. Tie them to twine over the plants to be protected, leave enough dangling to flap around in the breeze, to scare the birds.

Scarecrow

Have a go at making a Scarecrow, it may or not be effective at scaring the birds, but it almost be guaranteed to become a piece of landscaping art and a talking point around the neighbourhood.

Silver Foil Scarers

Aluminium foil or used Foil wrapping paper or bags (eg Chip bags), which is cut into strips to hang on twine through the area will scare the daylights out of any creature which moves it, or sees it moving in the breeze.

Or try wrapping polystyrene or ping-pong balls in the foil, and hang these through the area.

Water Hose/Sprinkler Scarer

Position a garden hose either up into a strong branch of a fruiting tree. Or tie it to a garden stake in the middle of your young plants. Leave a few feet loose above the top point at which you tie it off. When you notice birds descending on your plants. Turn the hose on as hard as you can. This will result in the end of the hose flapping around rather wildly gushing out a strong stream of water. This is usually enough to frighten anyone let alone the local wildlife.

Repeat this a few times and the birds or wildlife will soon not bother coming back.

Wind Chimes Scarers

Why not try and hang your old wind chimes in the area that you want protected.

Wine Cask Bladder Scarer

Take the nozzle out and use like a box kite. Or blow them up like balloons.

Tinsel Scarers

Use some of your old tinsel, or buy some up cheap in the post Christmas sales.

Allow plenty of loose material to permit the tinsel to move around in the breezes.

Sails/Pennants

Material, foil or plastic set up to flap in the breeze like either a sail or pennant, can be an effective scarer.

Windsock Scarer

Try your hand at making your own miniature version of an Airport’s Windsock to frighten the birds and animals

Clothesline/Airer Scarer

If you have the type of family that has clothes drying on a clothes line most days, then place your young plants in pots around the base of the clothes line or set up a movable clothes Airer near your delicate plants filling the lines with clothes and linen which will flap around a bit will also be an effective bird and small animal scarer.

Plastic Snakes

If you have an old plastic snake at the bottom of the old toy box, why not try putting it in amongst your plants. While I have never tried this method myself, I have heard of others who swear by this scarer. Move it around every so often.

Toy Animal Scarers

What about the idea of strategically placing a realistic looking toy dog or cat near your young plants. The theory being that the birds or small animals will already have had experience with real cats and dogs so will avoid any area with them.

(This is theoretical suggestion, which I haven’t seen tried but is based on the supposed success of the plastic snakes). So if anyone has the opportunity to try this one, let me know the results, please.

Protective Covers

Whereas putting a cover over or around the plants physically stops the animals from reaching the plants.

Glass/ Hard Plastic Covers

If you have a pane of glass or an old window that is not being used put it over your young plants, lift it above the plants using whatever is available to you, eg bricks etc.

Milk/Yoghurt Container Covers

Cut the top and bottom out of cardboard or plastic containers and slip these over young plants to stop birds and other animals from digging them out till they are established. It helps to bury the bottom of the container slightly.

This idea works just as well with any round or square material that will go round your young plants, from drink bottles to small sections of plastic plumbers pipe. But always cut them down one side to make removal easier once the plants have grown a bit.

Plastic/Shade cloth/Bird netting Covers

Make a framework of stakes around the plants that you want to protect, and place over this a shade cloth/plastic or bird netting cover. Shade cloth or plastic can be purchased by the foot/metre from nurseries or hardware stores. Or you can even just throw the shade cloth or bird netting directly over the plants/shrubs or small trees, if the plant is strong enough to support the weight of the material.

Stick and String Covers

Whether you are trying to protect a pot of seedlings or a bigger area out in the garden. Make up a framework of sticks or garden stakes around the seedlings, and then tie them loosely together by weaving some string, cotton, wool or twine between the sticks/stakes.

Wire Mesh Frame Covers

Wire Netting Covers

Support some of that light flexible fencing wire, mosquito mesh or even plastic mesh over your seedlings of fruiting plants, and support it with garden stakes to keep the birds away from your plants.

Hard Wire Frame Covers

Try supporting some hard wire mesh over your young plants to protect them from the ravages of birds or animals. You can use things like light concreting mesh or fencing panels, or whatever else you can access around the place.

Support them up off the ground with garden stakes, bricks or even soft drink bottles filled with water.

Sprays

The reason for applying a spray is to make the animals think that the targeted plant or fruit is not as tasty as they at first believed it should be. But it usually takes a bit of experimentation to find what will work with particular pests. As each have their own likes and dislikes even within the one species.

But try mixing hot or unpleasant but safe ingredients together to make a spray diluted with water to spray over your seedlings or fruiting plants. Try to avoid spraying fruit that you will eat, or rinse such produce well before consuming.

Some ingredients you might try include,

Tabasco sauce

Garlic

Onions

Chillies

Etc.

The above list of ideas should be enough to provide you with at least a few alternatives that you can try to combat those ravenous critters that are bombarding your young charges.

Today’s successful water garden usually is designed as an ecosystem that uses a balance between fish, plants and bacteria keeping the water clear. The type of pond I’m talking about is self-contained (not fed by a spring or stream) and between 100-900 sq ft; a backyard water garden that is easy to maintain and adds value to your lifestyle and property. 20 years ago the typical do-it-yourself water garden was a muck-filled cesspool waiting to happen, while the successful koi pond required deep water and unattractive out of the pond filtering equipment. Thanks to a better understanding of the pond ecosystem and some equipment ideas borrowed from the pool equipment industry, anyone with the ability to dig, make things level, and move rocks and dirt around can create a beautiful living water garden if they use proven equipment and methods.

Now I will admit that there are other ways that can work; But none of the other pond construction methods have the successful track record I’ve seen with pond installs using this system.

The basic elements for this system are underlayment, liner, rocks and gravel, skimmer, fill valve, pump, plumbing, biological filtration, plants, fish, and bacteria.

Here’s a simplified explanation of how this works as an ecosystem. Fish eat insects and plants and then the fish waste spreads through the system . The skimmer draws water off the top layer of the pond helping with circulation and aeration while trapping floating debris in a net. The pump is situated under the net in the skimmer and pumps up to a bio-filter. The bio-filter is often designed to be incorporated into a waterfall. The water enters the bio filter and rises up through filter media that is colonized by bacteria. The bacteria converts the waste into forms less harmful to the fish and less conducive to excessive algae growth. The waterfall or stream add more aeration that the bacteria and fish need. The plants uptake more of the nitrogen and some oxygenate the water. The rocks and gravel provide more area for bacteria and protect the liner from UV rays.

Sheesh! Every time I set out to give a simple explanation of a pond ecosystem it still takes 10 sentences. Suffice it to say that all the parts work together to make your pondkeeping easy!

I use the word easy as a relative term. Compared to the work and rebuilding you may experience with other methods this is the easiest way I know. But there is still a good deal of work in pond construction. Obviously you need to dig and shape a hole in the ground and move some heavy items around. A well trained crew with everything needed on-site can install a pond in a day. It may take a few weekends for a homeowner to do the job himself, depending on their ability, time, and conditions.

Some key points:

Size: It’s best to have it at least 6 ft across. Bigger is better. 16 x 11 is a good medium size. Generally people regret not making the pond larger when they are done with their first one.

Location: There is a tendency to put ponds in a place where water already collects in the yard. This isn’t always the best idea. Groundwater running into the pond can create problems. If possible bring it right up near the patio where you can enjoy the fish and flowing water everyday.

Electric and plumbing: Don’t overlook the need for a GFI outlet near the pump and a water source to keep the pond topped off. Most kits for some reason don’t include a fill valve, but it really is important since on a windy day a pond can easily lose an inch of water. Left unattended this can lead to the pump running dry in the skimmer for a long period causing possible damage. The ponds level of course won’t drop below the skimmer opening.

Lets go over the basic steps for installing this type of pond system.

Decide the size of the pond and order a kit with all the necessary components. Layout the shape of the pond with something like a garden hose. Leave it out there for a while, move it, think about where the falls and different plants will be. If you are building a stream do the layout for it too. Level ground isn’t a problem since you will be excavating enough soil to buildup around your waterfall filter. Paint an outline with orange marking spray paint.

Make arrangements for getting the variety of rock and gravel you will be using.

Position your skimmer and BioFilter. The skimmer should be on the opposite side from the falls or stream to create circulation. Then lay the flexible PVC, or kink-free pipe between the skimmer and waterfall filter. This is so it can be covered during excavation instead of trenching it in.

Establish a firm compacted and level base for the Waterfall filter, perhaps leaning slightly forward, depending on it’s design. If you have help they can be working on digging the pond while you get this right, or vice versa.

Hook up the plumbing to the filter and backfill around it. It’s a good idea to have someone stand in the filter while it is being backfilled to prevent it from shifting out of position on the base.

Examine any slope of the land and establish where the water level will be; usually a couple inches below grade. Finish digging the pond relative to the water level. A rotating laser level is the ultimate tool for this, though they are expensive to rent. Patiently checking string levels in all directions can get the job done also. Include shelves for marginal plants and keep the sides and shelves level. The deep part of the pond should be around 2 ft or a little less. Any deeper and most towns swimming pool codes kick in with fence requirements. Unless you intend to keep a great number of koi this will be plenty deep for your fish. Planting pockets for water lilies can also be dug now. These pockets create a plantable depression in you liner for later. You can either plant directly in these pockets or hide your planters in them covering with gravel creating a more natural looking pond.

Excavate the position for the skimmer so it will be on a firm level base that gets it into correct position relative to the water level. Recheck everything. All the measurements and levels. Make sure the pond is free of sharp objects and unfold the underlayment into it. Start in the deep area pushing the underlayment into all the shelves and pockets. The EPDM rubber liner is then installed in the same way, making sure that it extends far past the waterline (settling will occur) and above the openings on your skimmer, filter, stream etc.

Add rock and gravel. Pre-washing the stones can help with a clean install or you can hose them down in the pond while pumping out the dirty water. Use larger stones at the base of each wall that forms a shelf, building up with smaller ones. Cover flat areas with 1″-2″ gravel…absolutely no more than that. If you have extra gravel don’t be tempted to just use more in the bottom of your pond. This is for biological reasons I won’t go into now. The rock should have your liner pretty well pulled into position now so you can make final adjustments on your skimmer and attach the liner to it according to the manufacturers instructions.

Start filling the pond. Now the fun of building the waterfall and stream. Make sure you have plenty of slack running up to the falls opening before you attach it and make any cuts. Also take care to avoid folds in the liner as you twist downstream. Folds in the stream liner are a common source of leaks and why a very wide liner for a stream is recommended. Dry stack stones as in a wall up the front of the waterfall filter. Using black waterfall foam or some other type of expanding foam to seal the space between the rocks. This makes the water flow over the rocks instead of disappearing into the cracks between. Black waterfall foam is nice for blending in with the rocks. The basic outline of the stream should have been established with excavated soil from the pond, but some digging of different catch pools may be necessary and you may need to build up more of a berm at the waterfall. Rock in the sides of the stream and cover the bottom with gravel as in the pond. Use the waterfall foam to seal in rocks wherever a cascading effect is wanted, using flat rock to form the lip of falls and sealing under them.

Install the pump, install the overflow plumbing and fill valve in the skimmer. When water level is high enough and all the waterfall foam is dry, (you can assume your hands will be covered with the stuff, but try to avoid it because it is very difficult to clean off!) try out the pump. You will then need to refill the pond as it will take a large volume of water to fill the plumbing, falls and stream. Once you are happy everything is as it should be, cut the excess liner away. Leave several inches of liner for settling and possible adjustments.

There are plenty more nuances to building a pond but this should give you a decent feel for what a water garden project entails. The kits we sell include a decent installation manual and I’m happy to answer any questions as are many other pond enthusiasts.

by Bill Urell

People love to garden. Over a wide expanse of lot area, it is practically irresistible for a home owner not to incorporate garden designs within his fence. But, designing a garden is just the beginning. Once the Bermuda grasses have been firmly laid down and patches of tulips, roses and sunflowers artfully placed here and there, the careful gardening then starts. This is when extra time and effort is required from the owner to maintain the beauty of the garden. Some people call this process an art while others call it a science.

Over the years, gardening has not improved much. Gardening tools are the same tools that we have gotten used to twenty years ago. Improvements are mostly focused on easier handling of the soil and the flowers or plants. Pots have been modified from clay to one that is made of rubber from tires, but mostly due to environmental reasons, while fertilizers were used to improve the condition of the soil.

But one garden tool that had undergone a major revamp is a garden hose, the most used tool among the gardening tools. Called the garden hose reel, this tool eliminates the tangle mess caused by a common hose. With a retractable reel, the garden hose is kept straight at all times while it sprinkles cool water on a bed of Dahlias or pots of Sunflowers.

Moisture cracks are the most common problem with common garden hose. The cracks are usually caused by inappropriate bending of the hose itself. These cracks usually appear along the length of the hose after a few months of usage. When they do appear, a new set of hose has to be purchased. But with a garden hose reel, cracks are not a problem. They are designed to be more flexible when bent. Besides, the usual problem of rolling and unrolling is solved by use of this handy tool.

Gardening has never been more convenient and more manageable with the arrival of new technology, simple as it may be. The latest innovation implemented on the outdoor hose reel is an automatic rolling and unrolling action. The retractable reel is similar to the hoses they use in fire departments. This is clearly an effort to further improve the handling of the garden hose reel. People say that an art can be differentiated from a science when change disappears. Change is what makes it a science and without change it will become an art that will be passed from generation to generation. From the common bucket to the retractable garden hose reel, gardening is more a science than an art.

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